Golden Steer, the Vegas steakhouse import in Greenwich Village, feels like it’s been in Manhattan for years, even though it has only been open for a few months. Those who’ve visited the 68-year-old original will find it familiar. The paintings depict Western scenes and the sconces are replicas from Vegas. Touches of glam and kitsch accent the restaurant: there’s an original showgirl outfit, a mirrored ceiling, and a roulette spinner on the wall, as well as a Doc Holliday slot machine.

The restaurant comes from co-owners and couple Nick McMillan and Amanda Signorelli, who turned the address that had been One Fifth and Otto into their home away from Nevada.

What to order

• You’re here for steak. I got the 12-ounce filet ($106), a pricy thick medium-rare medallion that was tender enough, done up au poivre style ($10).

• You’re also here for tableside flair for items like the Caesar salad made by a server. It’s showy and fun, and the salad is well-dressed with lots of Parmesan and crunchy croutons, served on plates that resemble lettuce leaves.

• For a non-beef item, the chicken hunter style ($42) is a hearty dish, with two airline chicken breasts stuffed with porcini mushrooms atop a marsala reduction with even more mushrooms.

• You’re also here for desserts lit on fire. We got the cherries jubilee ($26). The server flames the cherries tableside and drizzles them over ice cream for a great cold-hot juxtaposition.

What to drink

New York’s Golden Steer pays homage to the building’s original tenant in 1934, the #1 Bar. My husband liked his Old Fashioned ($27), and I enjoyed my bubbly New York Fizz ($22). My recommended Ridge Zinfandel ($26) worked well with my steak, and I ended with a not-too-sweet Madeira ($25) for dessert.

Best seats in the house

Ask for a seat in one of the booths along what the team calls the Strip, a longer dining room with booths lining the sides, connecting the lobby and the larger dining rooms in the back. You get to see the action unfolding while seated comfortably.

Know before you go

There’s a dress code, so no flip-flops or baseball caps. Kids under the age of five aren’t allowed.

Insider tip

Near the bar entrance a framed display holds a postcard, cocktail stirrer, and matchbook for the original tenant of the building from the 1930s.