If you’ve spent any time in Western Pennsylvania or northeastern Massachusetts, Peek Inn will feel familiar in the best way. Greenpoint’s sleepy side has been bestowed with an instant gem where you can get a Utica Club and a North Shore-style roast beef sandwich just as easily as a perfectly tart Hemingway daiquiri and shrimp cocktail, depending on the mood. On a recent Sunday afternoon visit, I noticed the day’s New York Times had been placed at one of the banquettes — one of the many ways Peek Inn’s hospitality felt like walking into your favorite aunt’s living room or any other sort of familiar place you don’t want to leave.
What to order
• The ham-and-Swiss funeral sliders are ample: $13 for four pudgy sweet rolls crowned in poppy, sesame, and caraway seeds, sandwiching layers of sliced ham and melted Swiss, all of it laminated together by pickly dijonnaise. I would’ve liked more tangy pickle punch to balance the sweetness. Regardless, if you’ve ever been to a church picnic, these will tug on your heartstrings.
• With the Meat Hook behind the bar, it’s no surprise the hot dogs feature house-made franks. The three variations ($7 each) find snappy steamed dogs topped with anything from classic kraut and brown mustard to New England-style sweet onion relish and celery seeds. They were running a pimento cheese-topped special a few weekends ago, and it may have been my favorite of the bunch.
• The dish that knocked me to my knees was the chopped Italian salad ($15): a towering mound of crispy romaine, artichoke hearts, grape tomatoes, capers, crispy chickpeas, olives, and fat, juicy peperoncini all tossed in a zippy oregano-heavy Italian dressing. It was ’90’s pizza parlor nostalgia in a bowl.
Insider tip
Weekdays from 4 to 7 p.m., the Inn touts a generous happy hour with $10 martinis and $5 Coors-and-a-shot combos, when you can also snag two dogs or those sliders for $10.