Are you someone who would enjoy a scenic, sometimes hard, self-supported bikepacking trip on Vancouver Island? If so then I think you would appreciate this 4-day loop that starts and ends on the Galloping Goose Trail in downtown Victoria, BC.
The route links together sections of the Trans Canada Trail along with some quiet country roads, a few noisy kilometres along the Trans-Canada Highway and two quintessential ferry rides. The route weaves between forest and coastal trails and through small towns like Shawnigan Lake, Chemainus, and Ladysmith before finishing back in Victoria on the Lochside Trail.
I spent a lot of time online working on trip routing as I wanted a loop bike ride. You could do an out and back ride – but the big hills in reverse were no more appealing than they were on the way out. And biking to Mill Bay and onto Victoria is something I’ve done in the past, and wasn’t interested in repeating. I also loved the fact most of the ride was either on quiet roads or the Trans Canada Trail.
Below, I describe our exact 4-day itinerary, what to expect on each section, and what I’d do differently next time.
If you’re looking for more inspiration, check out my guide to the best bike trips in Canada.
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Route Overview: Victoria Loop via Shawnigan Lake, Chemainus and Sidney
• Total Distance: ~172 km
• Elevation: +638 m/-462 m on day one; +150 m day 2 (approximate), +100 m day 3 (approximate) and none on day 4
• Ferry segments: Duke Point to Tsawwassen and Tsawwassen to Swartz Bay
• Percentage on Trans Canada Trail: Around 67%
Map: Vancouver Island Backpacking Loop from Victoria
Day-by-Day Bikepacking Itinerary
Outlined below is our four-day bikepacking itinerary. At the bottom of the post I explain what I’d do differently next time.
Day 1: Victoria to Shawnigan Lake
• Distance: Victoria →Shawnigan Lake ~ 44 km to Southern Shawnigan Lake + 10 km to B&B
• Elevation gain/loss: Approximately +638 m/2,093 feet and – 462m/ 1,516 feet
• Time needed: About 5 hours with no stops – 6.5 – 7 hours with stops and walking bike in steep sections
• Highlights: Galloping Goose Trail in Victoria, Tacofino, Sooke Wilderness Trail, giant trees, suspension bridges, our Shawnigan Lake B&B
• Not so fun: Hail, snow, rain, freezing cold descent
What an epic day on the bike we had! We flew in from Calgary, and made our way to Cycle BC in Victoria to pick up our rental bikes. We were on the Galloping Goose Trail by 10:15 AM.
The cycling was easy all the way to Langford but we did stop a lot for pictures and some route finding. After a fabulous lunch at Tacofino we worked our way to the start of the Sooke Hills Wilderness Regional Trail by the Humpback Reservoir.
Ahead was several hours of tough climbing (with grades up to 16%) and descending thanks to a hail – snowstorm we ran into near the high point. Fortunately our bike handled well in the snow. In spite of the adverse conditions mid-afternoon, I loved all the big trees, the bridges, and the wilderness feel to the trail. But by the time we arrived at the B&B we were wet, dirty, tired and frozen – dreaming only of hot showers and sleep after our very early start to the day.
Day 2: Shawnigan Lake to Chemainus
• Distance: Shawnigan Lake →Chemainus: ~50 km
• Time needed: 4 – 5.5 hours depending on breaks, time at the trestle, route finding
• Highlights: Historic Kinsol Trestle, peaceful sections on the Cowichan Valley Trail, wildflowers, Glenora Store & Cafe, birds galore, murals in Chemainus, Chemainus waterfront
• Not so fun: Getting a flat
We had a beautiful sunny day for a bike ride. From our B&B we rode down to pick up a short section of the Shawnigan Village Rail Trail and then made our way to the Cowichan Valley Trail and on towards the historic Kinsol Trestle. We spent some time walking, and admiring the area – but didn’t hike any of the nearby trails.
From the trestle we enjoyed easy pretty biking along the Cowichan Valley Trail – and in hindsight wished we’d had time to take it all the way into Lake Cowichan. Instead we headed to a cute café in Glenora for lunch and then on into Duncan to pickup the Cowichan Bay Trail again.
We did have traffic in Duncan to deal with but once out of there we were back on the Cowichan Valley Trail all the way to Chemainus – though some of it was on road.
Chemainus was a great place to overnight – as everything was in walking distance of our accommodation – including the ocean.
Day 3: Chemainus to Duke Point Ferry + Swartz Bay Ferry to Sidney
• Distance: Chemainus → Duke Point Ferry: ~35.6 km
• Distance: Swartz Bay → Latch Inn, Sidney: ~5.5 km
• Time needed: ~3.5 hours biking + 2 hours on Duke Point Ferry +1.5 hours Swartz Bay Ferry (+ waiting time)
• Highlights: Swartz Bay Ferry route through the Gulf Islands, Ladysmith, quiet sections of the Cowichan Valley Trail
• Not so fun: ~3.6 km riding the Trans-Canada Highway
The biking was never hard on the third day of biking – but we were on the clock to be at the Duke Point Ferry by 12:30 PM at the latest. We made it with time to spare – but you never know if you’re going to get a flat, and I wanted extra time in case we had bike trouble. John did. A loose brake line was rubbing on the ground – and the fix – tying the line to the frame with dental floss.
The Cowichan Valley Trail – part of the Trans Canada Trail – travels north from Chemainus. It takes you through a wide variety of landscapes – neighbourhoods, fields, parks, farmland and ultimately adjacent to the Trans-Canada Highway – though with a concrete barrier for protection.
After cycling through the pretty community of Ladysmith we had to leave the Trans Canada Trail to get to the Duke Point Ferry.
Ladysmith to the Duke Point Ferry
• Cycle 1.9 km along Rocky Creek Road from the Cowichan Valley Trail on the east side of the Trans-Canada Highway. (It was very quiet biking.)
• Hop onto the Trans-Canada Highway for ~3.5 km (a good shoulder but noisy), exiting onto Cedar Road.
• Follow Cedar Road for 6.4 km to reach junction with Haslam Road.
• Turn right. Stay on Cedar Road for 5.3 km all the way to Harmac Road on the north side of the Duke Point Highway.
• Follow the roads running parallel to Duke Point Highway – Harmac, MacMillan, and Maughan. (There are some big trucks on this section).
• Get on the Duke Point Highway from a ramp off Maughan. Continue all the way to the ferry terminal – following signs for drop-offs and foot passengers.
• Buy tickets inside the terminal and follow instructions on how to load on the ferry. Bikes are first on and first off.
Catch the Swartz Bay Ferry in Tsawwassen
We had 15 minutes between ferries in Tsawwassen so I didn’t expect to make it. However, I knew there would be another one in an hour.
We had luck on our side! After exiting the Duke Point Ferry we biked over to a nearby terminal building to buy the next set of tickets to Swartz Bay. We were directed down to the waiting area and were on a ferry again – about 10 minutes later.
Swartz Bay to Sidney
After the scenic ferry ride through the southern Gulf Islands to Swartz Bay, exit the ferry and bike up to the top of a small hill looking for Lochside Regional Trail signs. They are easy to spot.
This is the start of the 29 km trail – so simply hop on the trail (sometimes shared with cars with a dedicated lane) and bike into Sidney and wherever you are staying for the night. In the summer months, you could make it all the way to Victoria in daylight, but there are plenty of things to do in Sidney that I’d recommend a stop here.
Day 4: Sidney to Victoria via the Lochside Regional and Galloping Goose Trails
• Distance: Sidney→ Cycle BC bike shop (back side of the Fairmont Empress) ~27 km, including 4 km on the Galloping Goose Trail
• Time needed: ~2 hours
• Highlights: Pretty farm country, ponds, spring flowers, Matticks Farm, some ocean scenery
I have cycled the Lochside Trail on a couple of occasions, one as part of a harbour to farm tour – and on several occasions when I would visit my mother in Sidney. The trail is always a delight – though I was shocked at how busy it was on a sunny Saturday morning in April.
The Lochside Regional Trail travels through Sidney alongside the ocean, through farm country, and neighbourhoods to ultimately join up with the Galloping Goose Trail. From that intersection you’re in familiar territory, retracing your steps back to the bike shop. There are plenty of photogenic stops to pull you off the bike and lots of restaurants just off the trail once you reach downtown Victoria.
Highlights of the Bike Ride
• Flowers blooming in April
• Sooke Hills Wilderness Regional Trail
• Shawnigan Lake swimming (in summer)
• Chemainus murals
• Lochside Regional Trail
• Ferry experiences
• Sense of accomplishment
• Discovering more of the Trans Canada Trail
Biking the Trans Canada Trail on Vancouver Island
Sections on the Trans Canada Trail we Bikepacked
Approximately 66% of what we biked was on the Trans Canada Trail.
• Day 1: Victoria to the southern end of Shawnigan Lake – then detoured to our B&B on the east side of the lake
• Day 2: Started at the junction with Renfrew Road a few kilometres northwest of Shawnigan Lake and took it to Rowe Road. Picked it up again in Duncan and biked it through to Chemainus.
• Day 3: Biked from Chemainus to north of Ladysmith where we left the trail to go to the Duke Point Ferry terminal.
• Day 4: Sidney to Victoria entirely on the Trans Canada Trail
What it’s Like
• Usually very well-signed
• Mostly good gravel
• Much of it on former rail trails
• Paved sections on roads
• Sometimes through neighbourhoods
• One section parallels the Trans-Canada Highway – but with a concrete barrier
Where we Left the Trans Canada Trail
• South of Shawnigan Lake (to get to our B&B)
• Detour to Duncan off the Cowichan Valley Trail in interests of time
• North of Ladysmith detoured off the trail to head for the Duke Point Ferry
Logistics for This Vancouver Island Bikepacking Trip
Ferries
You don’t need to reserve ferries if you’re on your bike but you should have a good look at the ferry schedule when you plan your trip.
The Duke Point Ferry from Nanaimo to Tsawwassen runs every 2.5 hours, so if you miss it, you have a long wait. The ferry from Tsawwassen to Swartz Bay runs every one to two hours depending on the day and the hour. Check BC ferry schedules in detail based on your planned Vancouver Island bikepacking dates.
Water and Food Stops
We always carry at least one water bottle each and some protein bars for the times we run low on energy. I’d recommend looking at the map to see what towns you’re heading through at the start of every day. You shouldn’t have any problem finding cafes and restaurants except for the remote section on the Sooke Hills Wilderness Regional Trail through to Shawnigan Lake.
My favourite lunch stop was Tacofino in Langford. We happened upon it when we went looking for food at the corner of Kelly Road and the Galloping Goose Trail. I’ve eaten at the one in Tofino on several occasions so what a treat it was to discover this one. We also had good Thai food in Shawnigan Lake and again in Chemainus.
Type of Bike
We rented bikes from Cycle BC Rentals & Tours – located behind the Fairmont Empress Hotel in downtown Victoria. They were the only bike rental outfit I could find that rented bikes that fit our panniers.
We had touring bikes with dropped handlebars. I found the gearing stiff and the braking tough. (I smoked the breaks a few times coming down from the Sooke Hills Wilderness Trail). I would prefer an upright bike and a gravel bike would be great on these trails.
Navigation
We used Organic Maps – a free offline hiking/biking app. It had the full Vancouver Island bikepacking route on the app – so we would pin locations the night before so we knew where we were going.
For planning purposes I found the Trans Canada Trail map online to be very helpful.
Where to Stay Along the Route
The area we cycled is popular with tourists especially in the summer months. We stayed in three B&B’s described below.
• We didn’t camp – but if you do, your best option might be to check out Hipcamp for reasonable prices. Many of the provincial parks aren’t very close to the Vancouver Island bikepacking route we took.
• There are Airbnb options along the route but be careful where you book. Some places are a long way from any stores or restaurants.
• Beware of two night minimums especially in peak season.
• Other towns or cities to consider include Langford (if you got a late start), Lake Cowichan, Duncan, and Ladysmith.
Shawnigan Lake
We stayed at the lovely Shawnigan Suite Bed and Breakfast on the east side of Shawnigan Lake. The hosts were lovely, throwing our wet, dirty clothes into the washer and dryer, and kindly picking up Thai food we had ordered so we didn’t have to get on our bikes at the end of an epic day.
There are some Airbnb options in town but camping options don’t look great. You could research Hipcamp and see if there is a place in the area that works for you.
Chemainus
We stayed at the centrally located Cottage and the Castle in Chemainus. Once we arrived we locked our bikes in a safe place and were able to explore the town on foot. Most restaurants were just a block or two away.
Sidney
We stayed at The Latch Inn, a few kilometres from downtown Sidney. It had a decent breakfast but it felt a little tired. There is some nice walking in the area but next time I’d go back to staying on the Sidney waterfront at the Sidney Pier Hotel & Spa – so I could catch one of their amazing sunrises.
What I’d Do Differently Next Time
I’ve done a number of multi-day cycling trips, and you can find more ideas in my roundup of bike rides across Canada.
Route Tweaks
My goal after pouring over the Trans Canada Trail map was to bike from Shawnigan Lake to Lake Cowichan and then onto Chemainus. I didn’t count on the biking taking as long as it did – so we had to nix part of the route to and from Lake Cowichan – or else have a grueling day. In hindsight, I would do this as a 5-day trip with Shawnigan Lake to Lake Cowichan as the second day and Lake Cowichan to either Chemainus or Ladysmith the third day. It would make for a more relaxed trip.
Gear
If you’re renting a bike be sure to ask for a bike repair kit, a spare inner tube, and a bike pump. See if they will include a multi tool as well. Many will provide a small front bag which is useful for anything small.
For a detailed list, see my guide on what to pack for a multi-day cycling trip.
• I swear by my Axiom waterproof panniers. Ours are at least 10 years old and are still going strong. (We were able to take two panniers each in carry-on!)
• I highly recommend packing a waterproof bike helmet cover in case it rains. It will keep your head a lot warmer. I have used a shower cap in a pinch.
• Bring bike gloves. I can’t imagine biking long distances without them. On cold days you’ll want full fingered bike gloves.
• Take a bike pump and a repair kit – and know how to change a tire. I’d also recommend bringing a few cable ties, a bandana, and a small roll of duct tape for one off bike or clothing repairs.
• Many of you might want a bike phone mount.
Is This Vancouver Island Bikepacking Loop Worth It?
Yes! In spite of getting hailed and snowed on I loved discovering this part of Vancouver Island on the back of a bike. I was wowed by the big trees we encountered on the Sooke Hills Wilderness Regional Trail, loved the laidback feel on the Cowichan Bay Trail, entranced by the Historic Kinsol Trestle – and enjoyed exploring several charming small towns.
I also love the fact that you’re deemed very approachable when you’re bikepacking on Vancouver Island. We had many people offer assistance when I got a flat, and also when we were looking for the right road for the Duke Point Ferry. On several other occasions people would randomly approach us to chat about what we were doing. I loved the social interaction that happens when you’re on a bike trip.
FAQ: Vancouver Island Bikepacking Loop from Victoria
More Great Bike Rides in Canada
• Best Bike Rides in Canada For a Day Trip – A curated list of Canada’s most scenic and rewarding day bike rides, from coastal paths to mountain roads.
• 5 Great Bike Rides in the Banff Area – A mix of scenic, beginner-friendly to challenging bike rides in and around Banff, highlighting some of the area’s most rewarding routes.
• How to Spend 5 days Cycling Prince Edward Island – A relaxed, scenic five-day cycling itinerary around PEI, featuring coastal views, quiet roads, charming towns, and plenty of seafood stops.
• 5 Best Bike Rides in the South Okanagan – Five standout cycling routes in the South Okanagan, ranging from easy rail trails to scenic road rides.
• Best Bike Rides in Ontario – A curated guide to the best bike rides in Ontario, highlighting scenic, accessible, and adventurous routes across the province.
Thank you to Vancouver, Coast & Mountains Tourism Region for help with ferries and accommodation.
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